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Royan, Charente-Maritime: A Coastal Gem Waiting To Be Explored – What To See And Do

Royan

Royan The Pearl of the Atlantic

The resort town of Royan on the Côte de Beauté is just a 30-minute drive from Le Gîte du Petit Chenac. The bustling seaside town is full of life throughout the year. Still, it comes into its own in the summer with music festivals, such as the stunning "Un violin sur le sable," and many sporting events, including the French Beach Frisbee championships, the Triath'long U Côte de Beauté and numerous surf, sailing and kayaking competitions.

In the winter, the town centre makes quite an effort to entertain locals and visitors. The shops and many restaurants stay open; there are fairs and even an ice rink at Christmas.

Even in high season, we have always found parking spaces. The town centre, with its many independent retail shops, is less than a stone's throw from the beach.

Many of the major attractions are open all year, including the Palmyre Zoo, Planet Exotica, and the Musée de Royan, to name just a few.

The coast road (the D25) from Meschers through St George de Didonne blends seamlessly into Royan and out to Vaux Sur Mer and Saint Palais. 

Royan's Cityscape: A Testament to Resilience and Renewal.

Unusual for a French town, Royan is not a mix of old cobbled streets and medieval walls, timbered houses and fortified chateaux. The Mid-Century Modern style of clean lines, flat planes, large windows, and an emphasis on functionality, simplicity and angular forms dominates the white urban landscape. The magnificent villas on the Front de Mer reminiscent of the Belle Époque seem too pristine to have withstood 150 years of Atlantic weather.

The reasons are dark and have their origins in the politics of the end of WW2, but explain Royan's modern look and feel.

By January 1945, the war was all but over in the area. France was free, and the war had moved on. The Germans and their allies in the Royan Pocket were going nowhere; the French Resistance surrounded them. On the bitterly cold morning of January 5, 1945, at the request of the French High Command, RAF bombers in 3 waves attacked Royan.

Royan 1945 After Bombardment

2000 tonnes of high explosives razed the city to the ground. Ironically, the only buildings left standing were the German Bunkers and forts still visible today.

No ground forces completed the attack, and the Germans remained, awaiting the end of the conflict. A further offensive, Operation Venerable was planned by the French High Command for April.

 On April 14 and 15, 1350 USAF planes dropped 7500 tonnes of bombs, including, for the first time, Napalm, resulting in an inferno. The combined loss of life was 442 French civilians and 47 German military personnel.

On April 15 1945, the French troops of General de Larminat "liberated" Royan. 

MONUMENTS

Mémorielle "Le Souffle"

On Sunday, May 8 2022, at Fort du Chay, a memorial was inaugurated in homage to the victims of the 1945 bombings. The sculpture by the artist Luc Richard, "Le souffle", is composed of 86 vertical tubes reaching towards the sky to represent the destructive breath of an explosion and the martyred city's desire to rise and renew. The circular layout of the open-air chapel expresses the solidarity and mutual support of the survivors.

Monuments to Operation Frankton

At Le Chay (6 All. des Rochers Royan) is a Stèle dedicated to Operation Frankton.

Directly opposite is the Pointe de Grave, although not strictly in Royan, it is just a 30-minute ferry ride across the Gironde. This breathtaking spot provides a stunning view of the wild coast and unobstructed views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Pointe de Grave is home to another of the monuments to the heroes of Operation Frankton, the daring raid by 10 British Commandos of the Special Boat Squadron in 1942 on Axis ships berthed in Bordeaux. The successful attack damaged or sank 6 ships but resulted in 8 of the Cockleshell Heroes being executed or drowned.

The two monuments on opposite banks of the estuary represent the fortified observation posts occupied by the Germans through which the Commandos had to pass. 

Bunkers and Blockhouses

From Ronce les Bains to Semussac, the Côte de Beauté is haunted by the last remnants of Hitler's Atlantic Wall. It is hard to walk along the Royan coastline without encountering some reminder of this tremendous but ultimately futile endeavour. 

Overlooking the Atlantic entrance of the Gironde Estuary, the Royan Bunker at the Pointe du Chay offers visitors an incredible panoramic view of the city and the coastline. 

There are more bunkers, blockhouses and forts to visit; these are the best examples.

  • Ronce-les Bains (plage du Galon d’Or),
  • La pointe de Suzac (Saint-Georges-de-Didonne),
  • La pointe de la Coubre,
  • Le lieu-dit « Le Requin » aux Mathes (batterie Rest Adler Cosel),
  • La plage de la Grande Côte à Saint-Palais-sur-Mer,

LIGHTHOUSES

Le Phare du Cordouan off the coast of Royan

The oldest lighthouse in France is still in operation. It was built on a small rocky islet in the middle of the Gironde estuary. The Phare de Corduan can only be reached by boat, and a tour service runs from the Port of Royan.

Corduan Lighthouse Spiral Staircase
Corduan Lighthouse Spiral Staircase

The" Lighthouse of Kings" has a fascinating history and is undoubtedly the most richly decorated in the world. The "Versailles of the Sea" even has a Chapel and is paved throughout with grey Sainte-Anne and black Belgium marble.

Le Phare de Vallières Saint Georges de Didonne

The Phare de Vallières offers visitors an enchanting spectacle. Standing tall and imposing, it watches over the Atlantic from the edge of the charming coastal town of Saint-Georges-de-Didonne, a stone's throw from Royan.

Le Phare de la Coubre à La Tremblade

The highest lighthouse in Charente-Maritime at 64 meters and 300 steps to the top, the Phare de la Coubre is a giant in a flat region with rare reliefs. From its position at the end of the Arvert Peninsula, it dominates the Côte Sauvage, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful natural corners of the region, with its vast beaches exposed to the Atlantic, its high dunes, and its thick pine forest.

Initially built in 1905, the lighthouse was 1800 metres from the shore. The force of the elements, erosion from wind and waves, and the silting of the seabed mean it is only 150 metres from the sea today!

Le Phare de Terre Nègre

Phare de Terre Nègre in St Palais sur Mer is 26 metres high and warns of the presence of a sandbank known as the "Barre Anglais".

Piste Cyclable 

There are over 250km of recognised cycle routes in Royan, varying in difficulty. For an easy day, there are the 2hr30-36km Coubre Forest and the 3hr-38km Between Two Estuaries Tours. These routes are loops, so driving to the starting point and parking is possible. 

Planning your tour is essential. There are over 20 bike, e-bike and e-scooter rental shops in Royan and many websites that provide routes and maps.

Port de Royan

Royan Port at Night

Port de Royan emerges as a jewel on the Côte de Beauté . The bustling port defines the town's landscape at the entrance to the Gironde estuary and serves as an active theatre of relaxation and entertainment.

You'll find everything from fishing boats to luxury yachts docked here, creating a dynamic and colourful scene worth visiting. The port also offers boat trips for those interested in sailing across beautifully turquoise waters with stunning scenic views.

During nightfall, it forms an enchanting vista with twinkling lights reflecting off calm waters, adding another star to its charm.

Beaches

La Grande Côte

La Grande Côte in Saint-Palais-sur-Mer is a stunning coastal area known for its beautiful 2.5km beach, making it the perfect spot to relax and soak up the sun.

 La Grande Côte offers breathtaking views of the ocean and ample opportunities for swimming and beach activities.

Part of the beach is designated Naturist, the only official naturist beach on the Royan coast. The naturist area is between the Les Combos car park and the Lède car park. 

Plage de Pontaillac

The beautiful Pontaillac beach is known for its fine sand and stunning views, making it an ideal spot to relax and soak up the sun.

Conche de Gilet

The Conche de Gilet is a natural narrow fault in the rocks. A small shady beach wholly covered at high tide sits at the bottom of the steps leading from the road.

Religious Buildings

Eglise Saint-Pierre à Mornac-sur-Seudre

The Eglise Saint-Pierre in Mornac-sur-Seudre is a charming church in the picturesque village of Mornac-sur-Seudre. This village is well-known for its craftsman's workshops overlooking the Marennes Oléron wetlands. It has been designated as a "Village of Stone and Water" and is one of the 27 municipalities allowed to classify its oysters under the IGP "Huîtres Marennes Oléron."

With its beautiful architecture and serene surroundings, the church sits majestically above the banks of the Seudre River, adding to its idyllic setting. 

Protestant Temple de Saint-Sulpice-de-Royan

The Temple protestant de Saint-Sulpice-de-Royan is an essential place of worship for the United Protestant Church of France. 

It is one of just a handful of distinct octagonal temples in France.

Church of Notre-Dame de Royan

The Church of Notre Dame de Royan is a remarkable architectural gem that stands out in the city. What makes this church unique is that it was built entirely out of concrete, making it one of a kind.

Notre Dame Royan stained glass window
Shutterstock_Stephane Bidouze

Inaugurated in 1958 and constructed in just three years, the Church of Notre Dame de Royan is a stunning example of modernist architecture, with its unique design and beautiful stained glass triangular window of the Virgin. 

Museums

Musée de Royan

The Musée de Royan is housed in the old Pontaillac market halls. Open throughout the year, the museum offers visitors a chance to explore the rich history of Royan from antiquity to the Second World War and the architecture and design of the 1950s so relevant to the city of Royan after the bombing of January 5 1945.

The building was renovated in January 2004, providing a beautiful setting for the permanent and temporary cultural exhibitions. 

Surfing and nautical activities

Royan, Charente-Maritime is a paradise for surfers and water sports enthusiasts. With its expansive coastline, there are plenty of surf spots. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or a beginner looking to catch some waves, Royan has something for everyone.

The area offers various nautical activities such as sailing, windsurfing, and paddleboarding. In addition to surfing, visitors can also take part in boat trips provided by the port of Royan to explore the stunning coastal scenery.

Gironde estuary excursion

The Gironde estuary excursion is a must-do activity when visiting Royan. Located between the Gironde and Charente coasts, this stunning estuary offers ever-changing landscapes influenced by the tides.

It's a dynamic space that never ceases to amaze with its natural beauty. To experience it firsthand, you can take the BAC Le Verdon Royan Ferry, which allows you to cross the mouth of the Gironde estuary.

This ferry connects Verdon-sur-Mer to Royan, providing a scenic journey showcasing this unique environment's impressive scale and beauty. Towards Bordeaux, with careful planning, the Blaye to Lamarque ferry can make a round trip through the Medoc and Saintonge/Blaye vineyards back to Le Gîte du Petit Chenac possible.

Animal Attractions

Palmyre Zoo

Elepants at Palmyre Zoo Royan

Palmyre Zoo, situated within the beautiful La Coubre Forest, offers visitors a unique opportunity to discover over 1600 animals.

Palmyre is the best zoo we have been to, including Regents Park.

One of the highlights is its renowned breeding program for endangered species. With its vast wooded area and diverse range of animals, including lions, giraffes, and elephants, this zoo provides an unforgettable experience.

The zoo's commitment to conservation and education sets it apart from other regional attractions. Whether you're interested in learning about wildlife preservation or simply enjoying a day surrounded by fascinating creatures, Palmyre Zoo has something for everyone.

Planet Exotica

Planet Exotica is a Zoo Parc Exotique covering an area of 7.6 hectares. This park offers a unique experience for visitors of all ages. Inside the park, you can explore a large tropical greenhouse and a desert area where you'll encounter fascinating plant life from around the world.

There's also a mini-farm with friendly animals and a village dedicated to Indian culture. And let's remember the zoo section of Planet Exotica, which showcases various exotic animals that will leave you in awe.

It's a must-visit destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable day out in Royan!

"Toute ma vie, je me suis fait une certaine idée de la France" Charles de Gaulle 1954